Understand
Much of the neighbourhood's distinctiveness is derived from their early importance to Vancouver and subsequent decline. Gastown emerged from a collection of shanties around a sawmill in the 1860s, later becoming part of the city of Vancouver when it was incorporated in 1886. It was the early entertainment district of the city with a large number of saloons and drinking establishments. Hastings Street, on its south side, became a commercial area with many of the city's early office buildings. Chinatown, to the southeast, was settled primarily by Chinese immigrants who came to Canada in the late 1800s to build the national railroad. Many remained in Canada and started their own businesses that helped make Chinatown, and Vancouver, flourish.
The city's business district slowly shifted westwards towards the Granville Street area and after the Great Depression, Gastown and Chinatown began a long decline. A proposal to demolish much of the area to make way for an expressway in the 1960s started a debate about their future and helped spark interest in the neighbourhoods. Renewal has been uneven, and today, Gastown and Chinatown and the broader Downtown Eastside which they are part of are in varying states of decay and restoration. Tourist spots and trendy bars sit just a couple of blocks from streetfront drug deals and hip new condos look over what is called Canada's poorest postal code.
The Gastown of today has all the appearances of mass-market tourism and can generate a bit of a love/hate feeling. It's a popular spot for the tour buses and the tacky souvenir shops know it... there's a new one every few storefronts. But the wide sidewalks, street level patios and old brick and stone buildings lend a charm and almost give it a European feel. Water Street has many of the tourist shops and restaurants while Cordova Street is more run-down particularly east of Cambie St and has a number of shops selling vintage items.
Chinatown, the second largest in area in North America, is further from the tourist path and feels rougher around the edges than Gastown. It has the usual tea shops and ducks hanging in the windows, but there are also beautiful gardens and an active night market in the summer.
In between these neighbourhoods Hastings Street and east of them is the Downtown Eastside, an area known for its drug use, prostitution and homelessness. It's certainly walkable during the day, but some people may feel uncomfortable and it can be a dangerous area at night if you are not familiar with it. Other than cheap accommodation, there is little to attract the visitor so touring this area is not recommended.
